Category Archives: General

2012

2012 Retrospective

Overview of 2012.

2012 started in Furano Japan. I never remember new years events because I am not really into that getting off my face trip. but the skiing was nice and lots of nice people.

Extreme Carving
Exreme Carving at Furano

Lots of light dry powder to ski and some fun times with my friends – both Australian and Japanese.

Indonesia

I should have worked for the rest of the year in Australia but instead I took off to South-east Asia to do some bird photography. I got a new lens and headed to the dark depths of Bali. First stop was Bingin Beach, along the Bukit and away from the yobbos in Kuta.

Floater
Surfing at Bingin Beach, Bali

I headed up the hills to the Bali Botanical Gardens, then down the coast to Lovina, Gilimanuk and across the water to Java.

Crested Serpent Eagle
Crested Serpent Eagle, Baluran National Park, East Java

Baluran National Park in East Java is one of the best birding spots in Java. It is a great place to visit, so do not miss it! Take some food with you and stay at Bekol.

Malaysia

First stop in Malaysia was Mersing, the port for Pulau Tioman. Pulau Tioman was a big disappointment. Not much there, just lots of mynas and pest birds.

Dark-necked Tailorbird
Dark-necked Tailorbird , Pulau Tioman

Melaka had some good birding along the mud flats with lots of waders along the mangroves. Port Dickson was well worth it, and they have a raptor migration event in March each year at Tanjung Tuan.

Blue-throated Bee-eater
Blue-throated Bee-eater (Mereps viridis). Batu 4. Port Dickson.

The Cameron Highlands is quite cold with lots of jungle and walking tracks. Taman Negara was well worth a visit, but photography was difficult in the dense jungle. I struggles to get enough light with my slow lens.

Thailand

I travelled from the south at Krabi where I photographed mudskippers and some egrets. Ao Nang is a tourist town, with some random beaches. Phang Nga is a small town a bit inland and a real delight. I found some nice Red-throated Barbet. In Ranong I did a visa run to Burma and saw a Lineated Barbet. Koh Chang was mostly deserted but there were Oriental Pied Hornbill and heaps of Brahminy Kites.

Brown-throated Sunbird
Brown-throated Sunbird, Ranong

Going north to Prachuap Kiri Khan – Red-wattled Lapwing, Little Tern, Black-naped Tern. Kanchanaburi – Coppersmith Barbet, Asian Openbill. Ayutthaya – Pied Kingfisher, White-throated Kingfisher, Javan Pond-heron. Sukhothai – Spotted Owlet, White-browed Crake.

Spotted Owlet
Spotted Owlet , Sukkhothai

In Chiang Mae I took some great photos of Sepak Takraw and Muay Thai. Doi mae salong had the remnants of the Kuomintang army.

Laos

I crossed the Mekong and travelled north to Luang NamTha then down to Nong Khiaw with its karsts and river boat ride along the Nam ou river to Luang Prabang. Ban Na had no elephants. Tha Khek, Savanakhet, Pakse were along the Mekong Rivere, Tad Lo had waterfalls. Champasak was quiet.

Black-collared Starling
Black-collared Starling , Don Det

Cambodia

The birding along the Mekong River trail at Stung Treng was fantastic. I saw heaps of exotic birds and got some great photographs.

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo

Up into the hills of Ban Lung, back along the Mekong to Kratie to see the Mekong Dolphins. Kampong Cham. Kampong Thom.
Siem Reap – tourists. Battambang. Koh Kong. Sihanoukville I liked despite the tourists and the sleaze.

Lesser Adjutant
Lesser Adjutant, Ream National Park.

In Kampot I finally got a shot of a Grey Heron. Bokor Hill – Blue-eared Barbet. Blue-winged Leafbird, Black-crested Bulbul. Then on to Kep, Rabbit Island and Phnom Penh.

Vietnam

From Phnom Penh I caught a bus to Ho Chi Minh City then flew to Hanoi to buy bike to ride the length of Vietnam. First stop was Ba Vi National Park, then Cuc Phuong National Park, Phong Nha caves, Dalat.

Ashy Drongo
Ashy Drongo, Dalat

Last stop was Mui Ne. I wanted to go surfing but the waves were crap and the wind was always howling onshore.

Little Green Bee-eater
Little Green Bee-eater, Mui Ne

Australia

Back home to Australia then off to Griffith after buying a car to make money for trip to Japan. I worked the Grain harvest then did a few weeks working in a winery on the production line. There is some great birding spots around Griffith at Campbell Swamp and Nericon Swamp.

Peregrine Falcon
Peregrine Falcon, Campbell Swamp, Griffith

I also did a side trip to Leeton and Narrandera.

Japan

Full circle back to Japan. I flew in to Osaka, spent a few days wandering around, then off to the ski fields of Niseko, in Hokkaido and another year.

slicing fugu
Slicing fugu at Kuromon markets, Osaka

Lets adventuring in 2013!

Mui Ne

Mui Ne

Southern Coastal Vietnam.

I arrived in Mui Ne yesterday just ahead of a massive thunderstorm which caused a major flood out the front of my hotel. Mui Ne is on the coast about two hundred kilometers north of Ho Chi Minh City. It is a big tourist resort.

Mui Ne beach
The attraction to tourists

This is just south of where I am staying and looking north. There are not many places to access the beach because all these resorts hog the land next to the beach.

fishing boat
Fishing boat

And of course there are the fishing boats. I helped to pull in some nets on the beach this morning but they only caught a piddling amount. About a couple of kilo of tiny fish and a few squid and prawns. Not really worth all that effort in my humble opinion.

Develop at all costs
New High-rise

There are heaps of new resorts going up. I think they are trying to emulate the tackiness of the Gold Coast. Luckily they did not bring in any Khmer architects to design it or it would have looked ultra hideous.

Crap tailor
A crap tailor

This is rather an unfortunate name or it might mean something.

boats on the beach
Fishing boats on the beach

These fishing boats have a really curvy bottom. They get them out of the water by turning the boat around and around until it is up the beach a bit. It is very labour intensive. I used to use my car and a pulley to pull up my dinghy. Too bad I changed about three clutches.

Coracle
A coracle

They use these coracles which are made out of bamboo slats and this one is sealed with tar. There are a lot of them that are made out of fiberglass. They use a single oar to scull them around.

Plastic beach
The fishing village at Mui Ne

The beaches are absolutely filthy with plastic and all sorts of junk like old nets all twisted together in these ugly mats of garbage.

My bike
My bike

This bike has brought me all the way from Hanoi to within a couple of hundred kilometers from Ho Chi Minh City. My mission is almost complete. It has been a gruelling couple of weeks. The distance from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is about 1700 kilometers but I reckon I have done more than that going up and down the mountains.

phong nha

Phong Nha Cave

Phong Nha Cave.

First thing this morning was some noodles – Phong Bo – and a hot black coffee. Then I was ready to go. I headed over to the wharf and there were already bus loads of tourists lining up to get on the boats. Luckily I found some strays to go in the boat with.

c3d-5959
The waiting crowds

Weekends in national parks are a no-go area. There are crazy hordes of day-trippers. It is best to avoid and go during the week. I always seem to mis-time my visits to national parks so far.

Downriver
Up the river

Here we are heading up the river to the caves. They were about a couple of kilometers from the wharf.

cave entrance
The entrance to Phong Nha Cave

Here is the entrance to the Phong Nha cave. We only went into the beginning of the cave and walked through them because the recent rains means that the river had risen and you would hit your head on stalagtites if you go in the boat through the cave.

Loooking out cave
Looking out

This is looking out from the cave about a hundred meters inside.

Limestone formation 2
Limestone formations

I cannot remember which is which stalagmites, stalagtites.

Limestone formation 1
More limestone formations

Limestone formation 3
Limestone

Looking out
Silhouette

These were a couple of German-Vietnamese guys who were visiting. Their mothers are Vietnamese and their father is German. They can speak Hanoi Viet but cannot understand the local dialect.

Inside looking  out
Inside looking out

And coming back out of the cave. We had to bash aside all the local tourists to get out. It was a fight to the death.

Downriver
The river downstream

And here we are coming down the river back to the town and the wharf. I am going to spend the rest of the day sleeping.

phong Nha

Phong Nha National Park

Phong Nha, North Central Vietnam

Well I made it to Phong Nha National Park late this afternoon after another dramatic day. Half an hour out of Vinh and the chain comes off the bike. So I wheel it to the bike mechanic (Rua Xe) and he fixes it and sends me on my way. Then about an hour or two later coming down a hill near Pheo on the Ho Chi Minh Highway the chain breaks.

River Karst
River side karst

So I roll down the mountain and wheel my bike through this village but there is no bike mechanic. So I wheel my bike another kilometer to another village and some guys call me over and offer to fix my bike. They proceeded to fix the chain with a couple of spanners, a file and a hammer. They were fair dinkum bush mechanics.

View from Wharf
View from the wharf

Then I am off again and I stop about an hour later for some lunch and these guys are at this truck stop and have been drinking. One of them tries to ride off on his bike and his mates try and stop him. He gets angry and his mate punches him and wrestles him off the bike. At this stage I escaped before any more fisticuffs took place.

Dropping off nets
Dropping fishing nets

I eventually made it to the town outside of Phong Nha National Park and found myself a hotel with TV and Air-conditioning for nine bucks a night. I think they have wifi downstairs which I will try later after I finish typing.

Looking down river
Looking down the river

Tomorrow I may go for a boat ride through the cave. I forgot to mention that I spent four days in Vinh because it was pouring bucket loads of rain every day and I could not get away. There was flooding and torrential rain. It was like a monsoon I reckon.

cambodia

Holiday in Cambodia

Sihanounkville, Cambodia.

Well I made it to the sea, finally. It has been a couple of months since I saw the ocean. I think the last time was at Prachuap Kiri Khan in Thailand. That seems like an eternity ago.

treasure island
Derelict resort

This afternoon after I got to Sihanoukville, I went for a walk along the beach and came upon this resort that had been left to rot or they had not finished it after years and years. There was all this black mould on the buildings. It was truly weird and creepy. It was called Treasure Island. ha ha.

walk along the beach
A walk along the beach

The beach was a bit nicer. They even had clean whitish sand.

storm out to sea
Storm brewing out to sea

There were a few storms coming through and I had to take shelter under a bridge at one stage.

fishing
fishing

There were a few people fishing under the bridge.

moto dop
Motor-bike taxi driver

Every five minutes you get asked if you want a moto or a tuk tuk. It gets a bit annoying after the five millionth time.

view from my balcony
View from my balcony

This is the view from my guest house balcony. It is pretty good. The has just gone down and there is a pinkish glow over the horizon.


The Dead Kennedys

c3c_4559

Koh Kong

Koh Kong, Cambodia.

Where was I last? I have lost track of where I was. I think it was Battambang. Since then, I caught a bus to the capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh. I did not go into the Central Cardamon Mountains from Pursat because you need a bike to get in there. Phnom Penh was horrible, so I only spent a night there. The traffic there is insane and the city is just total madness.

Trout fishing in Cambodia
Trout fishing in Cambodia

This is Andrew fishing for trout at Tahtai Waterfall which is about twenty kilometers from Koh Kong. We hired some motor-bikes for the day for six bucks each and headed off to the waterfall for a swim. The water was beautiful and cool and clean.

fishing boat
fishing boat

After that we went to Pream Krasaop National Park, which is a massive mangrove forest on the coast of Cambodia. I think I heard it was the largest in Asia. No birds but. I think someone saw a kingfisher, but I saw nothing whatsoever.

the hills
Looking towards the hills

I think that way might be Thailand. But then again, I think it might be the Cardamon Mountains.

fish farm
fish farm

There was this fish farm stuck out in the middle of this bay. I think it is quite shallow there.

pulling crab pots
fisherman pulling crab pots

We had crab for lunch at a restaurant in the mangroves. Freshly caught I reckon.

Pream Krasaop
Back to port

Coming back into port from our boat ride around the bay.

pakse

Dao Huang Markets

Pakse, Southern Laos.

After I returned from Champasak, I still had half a day on the bike, so I ventured over to the Dao Huang Markets, or morning markets, which are about two kilometers away from the city center, near the bridge across the Mekong.

Meat seller
Selling Meat

This is normal selling meat out in the open without any refrigeration. It happens all over South East Asia, Indian sub-continent, South America. Just about everywhere except for the developed world.

wild vegetables
Wild vegetables

I am not sure what these are but they look like wild vegetables or bush tucker as we call it in Australia. Lao collect weeds along the roads and creeks to eat quite often.

dried blood
Dried blood

This is dried blood from slaughtered animals. I have eaten some of this in noodle soup in Thailand, not knowing what it was. I wish I did not know. I guess it is a bit like what is in Yorkshire pudding or black pudding but I am not all that sure.

frogs for dinner
frogs for dinner

Ribbit!

slithery catfish
Slithery catfish

A bucket full of slimy catfish for sale. For the carp, they aerate the water, so you are getting a really fresh fish when you buy one. It is still kicking.

buying the veggies
Buying veggies

This is how you buy the veggies for the family.

lots of chillies
Chillies

Very hot ones. They usually bake them and put them in a sauce called a jeow. It is very strong. You only need a little bit and it is hot enough.

Sleeping on the job
Sleeping on the job

This is very common to see people having a sleep in the middle of the day. They get up really early before sunrise and go to bed early as well.

salad vegetables
Vegetables for sale

Here are your standard salad vegetables. You get a nice fresh salad when you order a noodle soup. I always eat up my greens. They are yummy.

Poultry for dinner
Poultry

I have a feeling this might be turkey because of the fatty bit around the neck. Not sure.

bark
Bark

I thought this might have been cinammon at first but it was not. I think it might be used as some sort of medicine.

all that glitters
All that glitters

There are heaps of these shops selling all this rubbish. I think it is suss. The colour seems wrong to me. I saw this guy electroplating some jewellery earlier, so I reckon that is what it is. Just don’t tell the missus.

The aftermath
The aftermath

The big mess after everyone goes home. Some crew come and clean it all up and the process is repeated tomorrow, and the next day, ad infinitum.

champasak

Champasak

Southern Laos – Mekong River.

I finally hired a motorbike. I got a Honda Wave scooter and it is a piece of crap. It is as heavy as a brick and rides like one too. But it was cheap – just over $5 a day. I set off from Pakse and crossed the bridge over the Mekong and turned left towards Champasak. The road was really good.

Mekong at Champasak
The Mekong River at Champasak

I found myself a cheap guest house and then went wandering up the road to see what I could find.

Sleeping Buddhist
Sleeping Buddhist

I found myself a sleeping Buddhist near a sleeping buddha temple. It must be a meditation technique.

Car Ferry
Ferry across the Mekong

I was fascinated by the ferries going across the Mekong River taking cars and motor-bikes.

Getting on the ferry
Driving onto the ferry

Here are some tourists driving onto the ferry.

Winching up the ramp
Lifting the ramp

The ramp is on a block and tackle and the captain has to lift the ramp off the bank by pulling the chain!

spitting
Spitting

Everyone spits a lot here. It is disgusting.

Pointillist landscape
Pointillistic landscape

Some of the scenery around Champasak to the west. There is a huge mountain behind it. I tried to find a track towards it but ended up on a mud path. My bike was hopeless and could not handle any bumps or mud. I pulled the Clarity way down to zero for this photo to get that hazy effect.

sand  barges
Sand barges

I went back to the ferry landing in the afternoon. Here are some sand barges on the bank.

shovelling sand
Loading Sand onto a truck

They would dump the sand off the barge and then a gang of men would shovel the sand onto a truck who would cart it away to wherever the construction site was.

Taking the pots out
Taking the pots for a drive

A fisherman taking pots down the river to catch some fish.

Captain and mate
A ferry captain and his mate relaxing

Having a rest before setting off to work ferrying vehicles across the mighty Mekong.

bogged
Bogged truck

This pickup truck got bogged trying to get onto the ferry. They were shovelling and pushing and revving and spinning. Finally they got it on. whew! It was exhausting photographing them. :)

tad stoung

Tad Stoung Waterfall

Tad Lo Waterfalls.

Today was an expedition on bike to the waterfalls surrounding the Tad Lo area. The first waterfall going upstream is Tad Hang. Then there is the Tad Lo waterfall.

Zou
Zou and his bike

I went with Zou, who travelled all the way from China on this Honda 125 motor-bike. We walked in to photograph the Tad Lo falls and most of mine turned out crap.

green black grasshopper
a green grasshopper

I did manage to photograph a nice green grasshopper who jumped right into my path.

Me at Tad Stoung
Me at Tad Stoung Waterfall

My battery died again at this stage so I had to go back and get the other one. When will I ever learn? We eventually made it to the top of the Tad Stoung waterfall but you could not get a very good view.

Havin a durrie
villager smoking

After that we went down to the bottom of the waterfall at Ban Khiang Tad Stoung village. Zou gave out a few cigarettes which were gratefully received. They were smoking their own home-grown tobacco rolled in paper or leaves.

Tyre + stick = fun
Kid with tyre and stick

I cannot believe how grumpy this kid was, even though he had a tyre and a stick. What more could you ask for?

The tinker
tinker on a bike

This tinker came on a bike selling odds and ends, but the villager was mainly interested in the umbrellas.

Lao Kid
kid by the river

We then trekked down to the river, heading up towards the bottom of the waterfall. These kids followed us, so we had to take their photos.

Boatman
young boatman

This kid had a bamboo boat which he paddled across the creek with a stick!

Waterman
waterman

This kid was like a fish in the creek, a true waterman.
Tad Stoung Waterfall

Tad Stoung Waterfall

The Xe Set River starts in the north of the Bolaven Plateau and continues to the highland’s edge until it plummets ninety meters off a vertical cliff at Tad Soung Waterfall.

Drying Tobacco
Tobacco drying

After that we went to a Katu village, Ban Lanong. The villages are built around a spirit house and previously Katu women tattoed their faces.

Katu Rice Fields
Working the rice fields

Looking out my window
A young girl in the window

Bamboo huts and satellite dishes
Modern conveniences

The most strange thing about these villages is that you see a lot of satellite dishes beside bamboo huts. It seems quite incongruous to me.

tad lo

Tad Lo Waterfall

Salavan Province, South Laos.

I caught the eight o’clock bus from Pakse to Salavan at the VIP bus station. But I had to change busses at the southern bus station which is at the markets about eight kilometers from town.

Water Buffalo
Water Buffalo

I had to walk a couple kilometers into the village of Tad Lo. Luckily it was overcast and a bit cooler than usual, so it was not too bad. I found a guest house that cost $1.20 a night, had a shower and took off with the camera up the river.

red flower
Tropical Flower

There were lots of bright flowers about. Red seemed a common theme.

red flower 2
Red Flower

red flower 3
Another red flower

This one looks a bit like a waratah, the emblem for New South Wales.

a plant
a plant

Then I saw the waterfalls. There is a couple of them, you go past one and then get to the next one which is the actual Tad Lo waterfall.

Tad Lo Waterfalls
Tad Lo Waterfall

There were heaps of water striders in a pool below the waterfalls

Water Strider
Water Strider

And lots of black dragonflies.

black dragonfly
black dragonfly

catching fish
Throwing the net

And the old throw net.